Thanks to a contact that Nicole made last summer while in Vietnam, we were fortunate to make the acquaintance of Made (pronounced Mah-day) – a Balinese taxi driver and occasional Backroads shuttle support staff member – who helped us make our way around the Ubud area during our three day visit. Spending time with Made also opened up a native window into Balinese culture, traditions, family and religion.
About 90 percent of the Balinese are Hindu, with the remaining 10 percent divided among Muslims, Buddhists and Christians.
Made’s village was conveniently located only minutes from our hotel, the Four Seasons Sayan, which is built into a hillside dotted with rice paddies along the rushing Ayung river in central Bali.
Made explained that his family – his wife and two children, his parents, and one of his brothers and sister-in-law and their kids – lives within a typical Balinese family compound. Hindu tradition deems that the kitchen is placed to the south, the adult married couples dwellings are built to the east, and the temple to the northeast.
People in Bali are given one of only four names, each one specific to birth order. The first child is named Wayan, the second born is Made, then Nyoman and then Katut. Our Made was actually the 6th child, so he and his 2nd born sibling are both named Made. This, we decided, is an excellent concept for Rich who often has trouble remembering names.
Ubud is considered the artistic and cultural capital of Bali. We visited some art galleries, a Monkey park, and a small batik factory in Pejeng Village, where each of the kids was able to choose their patterns and make one of their own.
Because of its proximity to Bali’s volcanoes and the Ayung river, it’s very well suited for those – like us – seeking adventure. We went whitewater rafting with a company called Sobek, which took us down the Ayung and its Class II and III rapids. Our rafting guide, another Made who’s nickname is Lowly, energetically serenaded us down the river. We all paddled, yet he managed to maneuver us for a refreshing spritz under the occasional waterfall.
Our last morning in Ubud, Made picked us up at 7 am and we drove about 45 minutes up to the town of Kintamani from where we could view Bratan, one of Bali’s two active volcanoes. We unloaded the bikes from the top of the car, and from here – with Made’s friend Wayan (a first-born) as “car support” – we rode back to the town of Ubud.
Our bike ride took us through many villages, where we shouted hello in response to every child and farmer’s smile and greeting along the way. We passed by countless numbers of bright green rice paddy terraces, as well as fields growing coffee, cocoa, peanuts, oranges and kafir limes.
While riding, we also came across groups of school children marching in unison and chanting what sounded like cheers. Made explained that they were practicing for upcoming competitions which will take place on August 17th, Bali’s independence day.
One of my favorite sights during our ride was a pick up truck loaded with about 40 school kids in their colorful uniforms. We followed the truck for a while, marveling as it stopped in each small villages to drop a child or two off. The kids would jump off the truck when it was their “stop.” It was their version of a school bus – no seats let alone a seatbelt!
Once back in Ubud, our reward after the cycling was lunch at Naughty Nuri’s Warung, famous for its grilled meats. We also had delicious meals during our stay at Casa Luna for lunch and Indus for dinner, where we ate the most flavorful curries and flat noodle dishes.
Next stop, Jimbaran Bay on Bali’s southern coast…
